22 days and 6,000 kilometers
on the roads of the Namibia

di Francesca Zannoni

11° day: Swakopmund-Walvis Bay-Kuiseb-Solitaire-Swarfontein
We leave Swakopmund in direction South, towards Walvis Bay, one city that it has very little to offer. To 8 Km from the city but high red sand dunes are found on which are possible to see someone that dedication to the ski... on the sand. Dune 7 is sure most famous and is marked from numerous street trusts. Always close to Walvis Bay Rooibank can be visited, a small village where the last Topnaar community of the Namibia lives. At least therefore they bring back the guides. We have been and to part an able insopportabile wind to raise clouds of sand, we have not seen a beautiful one nothing. Continued towards south: you are in the Namib Desert Park. To part the panorana not is much to signal. You know that the Namib is the more ancient desert of the world and, for being a desert is amazingly rich of life. Along the road, with one small shunting line, can be arrived to the Kuiseb Canyon , a panoramic point much beautiful one where pause pic-nic can be made. You restart, the road is still long. Solitaire is the first inhabited center that you will find on your road, but to define it inhabited center is one exaggerated vision a little of the truth. Draft of a benzine pump to crank, a cabin of the telephone that works yes or not, bar-restaurant-alimentary, an area camping with baths and shower, and three bungalow. The all managed one from Mr. Moose that offers the better apples cake of all Namibia (telephone: 063/296367), and that, if you are nice to it to us, it will tell you "of that time that cheetah...". The Guest more pleasant Farm of the zone is that one of Swartfontein , managed from Roberto and Silvia Scarafia to approximately 50 Km from Solitaire. Do not make to scare from the shunting line, the panorama and the acclimatization of it they are worth the pain, in order not to speak about the Italian-namibiana kitchen. Can you imagine gnu stew with mash?
12° day: Swartfontein We take a day of rest and we make ourselves to accompany from Roberto to go around the inside of the estate. Beyond to being an optimal naturalistic guide, it will be able to tell to you like lives in Namibia, illustrating to you qualities and the defects of the several local truths. But make attention, from good fond of walking, will try to drag to you in climbs to the limits of the impossible one... you take your measures and you regulate yourselves consequently!
13° day: Swartfontein-Sesriem-Sossusvlei-Sinclair Guest Farm
A rich journey will expect us today. Returned towards Solitaire and continued towards the field of Sesriem. From here, continuing for others 60 km it is arrived to the great dry Sossusvlei pan. The road entire is encircled from dunes that go from ocher to the red, one of beautifulr the desert distances that can be imagined. The last feature of road is percorribile single with the 4X4, but it has been instituted a system of shuttles that in little time will carry to you to destination. Dune 45 is one of highest (150mt.) and, if arrived in top, you can enjoy a beautiful panorama. The ideal would be to succeed to spend the night to the field of Sesriem (rigorously in stretches) or in one of the lodge of the zone, but it is not at all easy, above all in July and August, for which in the afternoon, you recover in march. In Helmeringhausen locality telephone 00264/061226979 is the Sinclaire Guest Farm (email: logufa@mweb.com.na) managed from Gunther and Hannelore Hoffman. One says that in the 1870 some coloni they acquired the property from the Nama in order to approach all branch mines and paid the earth with two full brandy wheelbarrows. Later on the grandfathers of the Hoffman found the entire one held and the mine that, to 3 km from the small farm is also visitabile.
14° day: Sinclaire Guest Farm-Seeheim

In the morning, after a prepared truly exceptional breakfast from mrs. Hannelore , we go to visit the old mine of branch that is found to the inside of the property. To find it is easy, enough to follow the indications. After the mining adventure, returned on the road and you take the direction for Bethanie; here the region of the Namib finishes. Bethanie is a small country founded from the German missionaries in 1814; of that period it remains a small building in the courtyard of the luterana church. Removed the supermarket not there are valid reasons in order to stop itself in this small country. The road for Keetmanshoop arrives to Goageb continuations to you and, to the svincolo that door to the Fish River Canyon you will find the standard of Seeheim. You do not expect a country because it does not exist. We have stopped ourselves to sleep to the Seeheim Hotel (telephone 063/250503), a motel for hunters, very very bad. The owners, strange persons, use the hour of the South Africa and are possible to pay in South African Rand! If arrived in the afternoon fairies a jump to Keetmanshoop and visited the Kokerboom Forest one of the more magical places of the Namibia. Draft of a full of rocks knoll forest that it accommodates beyond 250 plants of kokerboom, some high ones until 7 meters, a tree the many singular with the stocky log and coppers to fan revolts towards the high. The boscimani of it emptied coppers in order to construct the quivers for the arrows. To the inside of the forest an endowed camping also of bungalow is found, and lives some species animals like the warthog, suricati (the friend of Pumba) and a pair of cheetah. To 5 km of distance the Giant' s Playground is found a zone characterized from old full of rocks formations of 180 million years that, because of the erosion, have assumed truly singular shapes. Here and here the kokerboom grow therefore have the impression to be in an animated cardboard. To the evening the supper of the hotel will be, spiace to have to you to us to say it, one large disappointment. Are we pass also we to you.
15° day: Seeheim-Fish River Canyon- Keetmanshoop

Remembering of the supper we do not wait for great things for the breakfast , therefore we load the machine and we leave towards the Fish River Canyon. Draft of the greatest canyon African and, being to how much says the premises, according to solo to the Grand Canyon in Arizona. After long reflections we are not resolutions to understand if such affirmation is true or were dictated from national spirit, but once it arrives to you in the top you will understand that not draft of one issue of numbers and proportions: the sight will remove you the breath. In the course of the centuries the river has dug the cliff most colorful, but desert and inospital them where they can living little species animals and the kokerboom. If you have days to disposition and you are gets passionate you of the argument, you can dedicate you to the trekking that in 5 days Km crosses the canyon for 80. To approximately 20 Km from the panoramic point finds the Canon Lodge (telephone: 061/230066-46; fax: 061/257863; Internet: www.namibiaweb.com/canyon ; email: nature.i@mweb.com.na) an angle of paradise cured in every minimum detail and realized in the full respect of the atmosphere. Unfortunately it is not easy to find place for which we have had to please of the kitchen. The evening we have spendt the night to Keetmanshoop to the Central Lodge (telephone: 225850-224959-224982; fax: 223593; email: clodge@iway.na) the cured and elegant newest hotel where it is possible to stop itself for the supper. With a small supplement you can take the room with jacuzzi!
16° day: Keetmanshoop-Garub-Luderitz...>>> next page

 

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